CLICK HERE to go to examples of Actors Headshots as taken by me. The industry expects headshots to be of a certain look. They are not supposed to be glamorous portrait shots, not supposed to be arty and Editorial, are ALWAYS in black and white and are expected to be 10 inches by 8 inches. PERSONALLY, I DON'T BUY INTO THIS SCHOOL OF THOUGHT AT ALL. Instead, I very much agree with the following posting submitted by the DANNY RICHMAN who runs CastNet. Here is a recent posting from his blog (available HERE):
I couldn't agree with Danny's posting any more. Don't be frightened of using costume, hair, makeup and all sorts of photographic techniques including decent lighting, makeup and digital image processing (like Photoshop). If it were really just a question of "point and shoot", then you could all take your own headshots in Photo booths and be done with it! When you get your headshots done, how long does the photographer spend with you? Do they actually take the time to get to know you a little, see you work and even try to ascertain what sort of Actor you are? What quality is their kit? How many lenses are available to them (usually they will prefer a "portrait" lens but sometimes a really long lens can help with an actor who is camera-shy). What lighting do they use? Do they use any digital image manipulation software once the shot is taken (nearly EVERY shot taken can benefit from a little digital post production). If you just turn up, sit in front of the camera and then leave an hour later, ask yourself "how representative of ME as an Actor are these shots or was I just another gig?" (When doing headshots for Actors, I usually put aside a day to do the work, not one or two hours.) There are some really gifted Headshot Specialist Photographers out there and some Photographers who just think a headshot is a medium close-up. The real test is to look at the Photographer's past work and ask yourself "do they really understand the Brief the Industry is giving them?" By the way, make sure your contact details are on the back of the headshot as the photo is bound to get separated from the covering letter. Use a sticky label rather than a biro - make something nice and professional looking on your computer, it isn't hard! Go to TOP
HEADSHOT TECHNICAL STUFF (You may find the following useful if you are about to have some headshots taken) BRIEF: The secret of a good and effective headshot from the Industry Persepective is "does the subject look like that when they walk in the room at a casting?". AS DANNY'S POSTING STATES, NEUTRAL SHOTS GET NEUTRAL RESULTS. So, you have a choice to make. Do you go with the received way of working or do you take Danny's (and my) advice. I know which way I'd go... POSE: STAND, don't sit. Stand almost at right angles to the camera (maybe 45 degrees rather than 90 degrees to camera) and then turn to face camera. Try to ensure that the lens is at eye level or close to eye level. Think an open thought, try to treat the posing as an acting exercise and project a welcoming, warm and open emotion to the camera. Don't overcook it! Just THINK the emotion and that should be enough.
COSTUME: Wear something well made and made of good, natural fabric if possible. Try to avoid anything too black or too white as these will either disappear into a black hole on the final shot or just burn out. Instead, look for natural clothing that is pastel shades. Also, try to avoid fussy collars and fancy patterned fabric (even stripy or spotty fabric is not very effective). Basically, go for natural fabrics and don't wear anything that will detract the eye of the viewer from the face! LENS LENGTH: I suggest the photographer uses a Portrait lens (traditionally, a focal length of around 85mm, perhaps going up to 135mm) and tries to maintain a depth of field that isolates the subject from the background. FRAME SIZE and ORIENTATION: A headshot is ALWAYS portrait, NEVER landscape and is usually a MCU (a MEDIUM CLOSE UP, chest to top of head with a bit of air at the top of frame). BLACK AND WHITE vs. COLOUR: Headshots tend to ALWAYS be black and white and if the photographer shoots in colour, they must have an awareness of how colour images look in black and white. Shame this as colour shots can be really good. Why not break the mold go with a few colour shots??? CONTRAST: The final shot should have an overall soft contrast look to it (not severe blacks and whites but instead many, many shades of grey). This is massively affected by how the photographer lights the shoot...
LIGHTING: The principal light source should be a SOFT LIGHT. If I am taking headshots in a studio, I will always use FILM LIGHTS not FLASH LIGHTS as film lights and film lighting techniques have proved to be much more adjustable and malleable than standard stills studio flash lights. Also, rather than go for traditional three point lighting, I tend to use a bank of KINOFLOWS (create a wonderful, soft and very forgiving light) as my main lighting source if in a studio, choosing to keep this main lighting bank at lens level and very close to the lens. I then also tend to use a modeling light to punch in a tiny bit of light into the eyes, just to make them sparkle... Great care must be taken balancing this modeling light to the kinoflow soft light or else the eyes will burn out or look too contrasty. I will ALWAYS use just a little backlight as well, to help separate the subject from the background. It is a never-ending source of amazement to me that headshots so rarely have backlight in them. I NEVER use an angled key light to throw shadows across the face - never. Although this sort of "Rembrandt" look is great for portrait work, it is totally unsuitable for headshots. If I am outdoors, then I will use a flash (but a greatly softened flash, rated usually 2/3rds of a stop under the desired exposure rating) and also a reflector to bounce light into the eyes. I will try to ensure the subject is not directly lit by the sun as most, if not all, people screw their eyes up if too brightly lit. Consequently, I'll place the subject under the shade of a cool tree and feed them cocktails as the band plays Caribbean tunes! (Well, maybe not!) Go to TOP
WHAT IS THE CHEAPEST WAY OF GETTING HIGH QUALITY PRINTS? There are several companies that offer on-line printing - I use http://www.photobox.co.uk If you upload pictures to either of their website (and this is really easy to do if you follow the on-screen instructions), then you can order 10 by 8 inch prints at 99 pence each (if you order 20 or more)... Pretty good value for money, I'd say.
WHAT IS RETOUCHING AND DO I NEED IT ? RETOUCHING is the process whereby a photographic image is "edited" after it has been taken. It is standard practice in professional photography. The reason why it should be of interest to you is that a good many headshots I have ever seen could benefit from a little retouching. Think of it like PHOTOGRAPHIC MAKEUP... Sure, a good headshot should be representative of an actor as they walk into a casting but you wouldn't go to a casting without taking more than a little care on your appearance, would you? The knack is to NOT RETOUCH TOO MUCH, JUST "POLISH" THE SHOT TO MAKE IT AS TRUE TO YOUR BEST APPEARENCE AS POSSIBLE. FOR EXAMPLE, the table below shows the benefits of RETOUCHING STANDARD HEADSHOTS:
Go to TOP RETOUCHING is excellent at removing unwanted hairs that drift into shot as well as annoying spots (remember, even Cameron Dias gets spots!):
(By the way, Sara, whose photos these are, is owed a big apology from me for showing the world that she, like other beauties, get the odd "Bad Complexion" day). Go to TOP RETOUCHING can also be used to remove backgrounds etc:
Go to TOP RETOUCHING can also be used creatively. By doing this, it is a wonderful tool for creating PUBLICITY IMAGES for you. For example:
Perhaps the best RETOUCHING TOOL is actually PHOTOSHOP, a program that runs on a computer and allows the most amazing detail to be achieved in the art of retouching. However, wonders can still be achieved in an ordinary DARK ROOM using OLD SCHOOL FILM PRINTING TECHNIQUES. Don't be frightened of RETOUCHING - it can be the most excellent tool if used correctly.
CAN YOU HELP ME WITH MY HEADSHOTS? Probably - if I'm not too busy... Go to TOP |
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